Inappropriate Elimination

House-training problems -- called inappropriate elimination -- are the number one cause of behavior-related complaints from cat lovers -- and with good reason. No one likes to deal with urine and feces in a litterbox, much less in a part of the house you didn't expect to find them. Cats who can't be convinced to use the litterbox all too often end up looking for a new home -- and for these animals, the prognosis is grim.

The first step in getting your cat to use the litterbox is to figure out why he's not using it. Rule out a medical problem -- commonly, a urinary-tract infection. These infections give the cat a "sense of urgency" to urinate even when the bladder is not full, and urinating may even be downright painful in more severe cases. Your cat may come to associate the use of the box with these unpleasant sensations and so avoids the box. If that's the case, you need to retrain your cat, perhaps by changing the box and litter so that it "feels" different, but probably by using the safe room approach (more on that later).

If your cat checks out fine at the vet, you need to experiment to make sure everything about the box is to his liking. The following list describes some things to consider:

Cleanliness. Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litterbox is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Think of how you felt the last time you were faced with a dirty public restroom, and you can probably empathize! Attend to the box frequently -- twice a day is ideal -- and make sure that it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis. Another option: two litterboxes.
Box type and filler. Many choices people make to suit their own tastes don't match with what their cat wants, and when you're talking boxes and litter, your cat's opinion is the only one that counts. Many times the offending box or litter is one chosen in an attempt to reduce smell for people -- but your cat's can still smell just fine. A covered box may seem more pleasing to you, but your cat may think it's pretty rank inside. Likewise, scented litters may make you think the box smells fine, but your cat may disagree -- not only is the box dirty, he reasons, but it's got the extra "clean" odor he can't abide. Go back to basics, a simple box, a plain litter. Many cats prefer clumping litter, and this variety makes the box easier to keep clean, too. Just skip the deodorizers.
Location. Your cat's box should be away from his food and water dishes (you don't eat near the toilet, so why should your cat?) and in a place where he can get to it easily and feel safe. Consider location from a cat's point of view: choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box. You should also experiment with additional boxes in your house, especially if you've got more than one cat. Urine and feces are weapons in a war over territory: some cats share boxes; many don't.

Make the area where your cat has had mistakes less attractive by cleaning thoroughly with a pet-odor neutralizer (available in pet supply stores or catalogs) and cover with foil, plastic sheeting, or plastic carpet runners with the points up to discourage reuse of the area. Enzymatic pet mess cleaners take time to work, so figure on keeping the area blocked off for at least a couple of weeks.

If this procedure doesn't clear up the problem, you may need to retrain your cat by keeping him in a small area for a few days. Make sure that the safe room has no good options besides the litterbox -- no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub -- keep an inch of water in it to discourage its use as a place to go. After your cat is reliably using the litterbox, let him slowly expand his territory again. As long as you keep up your end of the bargain and keep the litterbox appealing, he should keep up his end, too.

Inappropriate Elimination or Litterbox Avoidance

Inappropriate Elimination
or Litterbox Avoidance